La Perla is one of the few brands of luxury specialized in the world of high lingerie that after several years and a long historical evolution is still afloat in the market of lingerie and swimwear. Founded in 1954, the company’s recent history has been written on the basis of changes in the top management and shareholders, with the aim of returning to the hegemony of the 90’s. Under the new direction, the company has found stability in the business model that they intend to follow and, everything seems to indicate that they are on the right track.
The fashion business is going through a moment of change. New brands, new challenges, where technology and the sociological factor is decisive. At present the online duality VS offline, and the coexistence of several generations and their particularities when consuming are changing consumer behavior, a fact that alters the economic results of operators in the sector. Innovating is undoubtedly what gives the differential value. The product is one of the essential foundations in the development of any firm, and therefore the design can not be left out of any strategy.
In this order of ideas, Alessandra Bertuzzi has become the creative director of La Perla, she is the woman at the forefront of design in the new era in which the firm is entering and shows the new bridal lingerie collection that has been presented during the last fashion week in Milan. Alessandra Bertuzzi is one of the luxury designers that is well worth knowing and she sums up her trajectory and vision of La Perla with the following interview:
1. For those who don’t know, who is Alessandra Bertuzzi?
I am a down-to-earth person. I can easily relate to people, I’m an optimist and I’m always in a good mood. I’m determined, hard to please and constantly looking for innovation, for things to discover or learn. I am loyal and passionate. When my heart is in something, I never give up: in both my private and professional life. I am very demanding, first and foremost with myself, and consequently with others, although I never impose my way of thinking too strongly, it’s important to me to consider other people’s opinions as well as my own.
I have been working at La Perla for around 30 years. I started as a junior designer and, step-by-step, I got to where I am now. I am infinitely grateful to La Perla, a brand that has taught me, helped me grow and supported me.
2. So far, what has been your greatest challenge as Creative Director of La Perla?
Amazingly, I would say there have been almost none. The challenge is to succeed in doing my job extremely well, but this is nothing new. I know this company, the job and the people so incredibly well that everything has always been extraordinarily simple and exciting. The biggest difficulty is managing myself. Obviously my responsibilities have increased with the tasks I have to manage, transversal skills. And now I need days that are 30-40 hours long.
3. How are you reorganizing the atelier?
The atelier team are all incredible professionals who are totally capable of organizing and managing their own work. Today, just as always, my role is to give them all time. Time to listen, support, and, if necessary, help. As a team, we have been working together forever. La Perla is a very well-oiled machine, the atelier know what I would like from them and what I expect. In the same way, they know who I am personally too.
The key thing is our conversation and relationships, as well as the awareness that we are integral parts of the company’s inner workings, in addition – of course – keeping to the constant desire to improve and reflect our skills within the La Perla brand.
4. What are your long-term work goals?
My goal is the same one I’ve always had. To improve and have the skills to help La Perla improve and excel in any way possible. To build a brand that is a point of reference for all women, and I mean all. This is the real challenge, but we’re doing it.
5. In today’s world of fashion, where everything is constantly evolving, does the creative heritage of the past and its sources of inspiration matter?
Absolutely. In fact, I think it is a must. I am part of a company that has 65 years of history behind it. Exceptional, unique pieces have been created throughout that time. Why should we forget them? After all, every brand draws inspiration from existing or key moments that made it what it is today. The skill lies in being able to rework the products and design those parts of past in mind with what we create today. The technical innovation of our signature materials, for example and transforming them into contemporary garments.
6. How is the creative process of a lingerie collection conceived? What is the most important aspect?
– The fit. If we don’t have the perfect fit, then nothing else matters. – Merging innovation, elegance and the correct performance of the garment. – You need to emphasize that, as far as underwear or beachwear are concerned, the centimeters of fabric you have to work with are truly limited. Therefore, the creative idea has limited room for expression, unlike when you work with nightwear, bridal wear or ready-to-wear.
Undoubtedly this is necessary in our design, it allows for a coherent look across the various ranges and also (in the larger garments) for an idea or concept to be conveyed in a clear manner. It is also important as a working tool for communications, the visual and sales – we considering all of these factors right at the start with our design.
La Perla is a small luxury for women to indulge themselves: being a La Perla woman means loving yourself.
7. What is your vision on fashion? How do you perceive the brand itself and the world of lingerie?
I love fashion, of course, but I’m not a fashion victim. I can spend a king’s ransom on buying a single garment, yet at the same time I’m also completely happy to shop at high street stores too. I have my own style, if you can define it as such, but no preconceived ideas. I wear what I like and what I think looks best on me or best represents men personality, regardless of the current trends.
8. Is the niche of luxury lingerie still valid? What is La Perla’s role in this market?
I believe so, we are luxury. Inclusive luxury. We want to include, not exclude. Let me ask you something: will the Hermès Kelly bag continue to sell? Will we still see Ferraris or Lamborghinis on the road? Will there always be majestic private yachts sailing the seas?
Massimo Bottura, the chef and owner of Osteria Francescana in Modena (Italy), which has been awarded 3 Michelin stars and is ranked the best restaurant in the world and delivers astronomical bills at the end of a meal, yet to eat at his restaurant there is a waiting list for months. These are also niche products, and they are also the highest expression of excellence. To create true excellence requires extraordinary and complex work, but if everything is done to the level of perfection required, excellence always pays off. It’s true, we sell an expensive product, but we pay attention to the smallest of details. We constantly test the fit and the quality of the seams. We only use the best materials. We are the REAL representation of the Made in Italy craftsmanship.
Perhaps not everyone can buy our products, or at least not always, but when they do, I am certain that our customers will feel true satisfaction.
According to a study by KPMG, the Made in Italy certified label is the third most recognized brand around the world after Coca Cola and Visa and, in recent years, Google searches for Made in Italy products have increased by 153%. What’s more, the Made in Italy label is worth over US $7.5 billion.
There isn’t a big difference between La Perla and the brands I mentioned just now, only that our product is almost always concealed, isn’t always flaunted, and perhaps that is why it is more difficult to justify the price of lingerie and nightwear in particular. I believe this is exactly why it should be more appreciated, La Perla is a little piece of luxury that women indulge in for themselves. Being a La Perla woman means loving yourself.
Perhaps not everyone can buy our products, or at least not always, but when they do, I am certain that our customers will feel true satisfaction. Our job is to succeed in meeting the expectations of our loyal and potential customers, to make a simple bra into a tiny masterpiece of comfort, beauty and quality.
9. How do you get femininity, modernity and luxury to be appreciated in La Perla’s lingerie?
These words were most likely already a very key part of my vocabulary, yet I was also professionally trained on these concepts. Our founder, Ada Masotti was my first teacher. La Perla was built on pillars of femininity, modernity and luxury, which radically became a part of me and all of us.
Balance is key. Never too nude, never too bright, never too extreme, yet boredom and repetition are also forbidden.
You have to think about the woman, her ability to represent herself in many different situations and most of all, her incredible ability to remain true to herself. When we wear a garment, whatever it might be, we want to feel beautiful and at ease, in addition to the need for comfort. All of this, in tune with our bodies.
10. How does Alessandra see the role of La Perla in the lives of women?
I would like it to meet the needs and desires of all women. It is a difficult, complex job that, unfortunately, takes time. We cannot, and more to the point, we don’t want, to ever get it wrong. There are still so many areas we haven’t explored. at La Perla Some are easier to achieve, others are more arduous, yet the common goal is to grow by improving our products, day by day.
11. What do you think about the new language of social networks in relation to fashion? Do you think it is an element to consider in order to reach more women?
I think that social media is an exciting new channel, an addition to existing ones, to encourage talk about your work, and to me, it is so important to keep in touch with new digital movements. It is another way of communicating, which is useful for providing real-time updates and a source of innovation and trends.
